Mark the intended line using string line for straight runs or a garden hose/spray paint for organic curves. Use a half-moon edger or flat spade to cut a vertical slit along the line roughly 100mm deep. Pre-cutting breaks through roots, compacted clay, and stones, allowing the integrated ground spikes to drive down cleanly without distortion.

Before locking strips together, shape any required curves or right angles.

• Curves: Gently bend the strip over your knee or around a circular object (like a tree trunk or bucket) until the profile matches the trench.

• Right Angles: Score the back face slightly with a hacksaw or clamp the strip between two pieces of wood to bend a crisp 90° corner by hand.

Set the first strip into the pre-cut trench. Ensure the male connection tabs point in the direction of your installation path. Place a wooden block over the top rim and tap it down using a rubber mallet until the top edge sits at your target finished height—ideally 10mm to 15mm above the soil level so lawnmower blades can clear it easily.

Slide the female end of the next strip over the male tabs of the anchored strip. Push the new section down until both top rims sit flush with one another. Using a flathead screwdriver or pliers, bend the pre-punched locking tab firmly through the slot to lock both pieces together permanently.

Work along the newly connected strip, tapping it down evenly using the wood block and rubber mallet. Alternate taps along the section to drive the integrated spikes squarely into the ground, ensuring the joints remain flush and level across the entire run.

Backfill both sides of the edging. Firm in soil or turf firmly against the lawn side with the heel of your boot, and lay your aggregate, mulch, or gravel grid up against the opposing face. Proper compaction on both sides provides the final lateral resistance needed to keep the border rigid.